Laminate flooring gives the look of hardwood with easier maintenance and more durability. It is appropriate for any room in the house — although installation in bathrooms and other wet areas does require special care. Laminate flooring is available in popular wood finishes as well as designer colors, and it is less expensive than hardwood flooring. Thanks to its "floating floor" installation, laminate flooring can be installed over almost any existing material that is smooth and well-bonded.

The "Floating Floor"

Unlike traditional wood floors, laminate floors are installed as "floating floors" not physically attached to their subfloors with mechanical fasteners such as nails, screws or pegs. Adhesive is used only to attach the laminate boards to each other. Expansion areas are left along the perimeters of the finished floor, allowing it to expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes. These expansion areas are concealed by wall base trim.

Tools and Materials

• Glue
• Pry bar
• Hammer
• Circular saw
• Knee pads (optional, but recommended)
• 1/4" spacers
• Laminate flooring
• Floor leveler
• Underlayment
• Rags
• Moldings

Where to Install

Laminate flooring is appropriate for any room. It can be installed over ceramic tile, concrete, or board/ply underlayments. It can even be installed over well-bonded vinyl or short pile carpet, if the pile is less than 1/4 inch high and there is no pad underneath.

If you choose to install this flooring in a bathroom or wet area, you must take special care to seal it against dampness and leaks. Read the manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Prepare the Subfloor

1. Remove any existing wall base or trim.
2. Assure that the subfloor is clean, dry and level before proceeding.
3. Roll out the foam underlayment, which will provide noise buffering and make the floor more comfortable for walking. Do not overlap the foam at the edges. Cut the underlayment to fit the room, and install according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Dry-Fit the First Three Rows

1. Inspect each piece of flooring before installing it.
2. Starting along one wall, lay out the first row of flooring with the grooved side against the wall.
3. Install 1/4" spacers between the flooring strip and the wall. This will establish the expansion area to allow for floor movement. This gap will be covered later with wall base molding.
4. If the starting wall is crooked, use a set of dividers to scribe the contour of the wall on the flooring. Cut along this line to produce a board that conforms to the wall contour.
5. Cut the last piece long enough to fit while maintaining a 1/4" expansion area at each side wall. As the floor is installed, maintain the 1/4" expansion area around the entire perimeter of the floor.
6. If you are using a hand saw, cut the flooring with the finish side up. If you are using a power saw, cut the flooring with the finish side down. This should minimize the possibility of damaging the finish during the cut.
7. Put the last piece in place with a prybar, with 1/4" spacers at each end of the row.
8. If the piece left over is more than 12" long, it may be used to begin the next row of flooring. If it is less than 12" long, cut a full board in half and use it to start the next row. Always keep a minimum of 12" of overlap between the end joints in adjoining rows of boards. Use the pull bar to tighten up joints.

Begin Glue Installation

1. After fitting the first three rows of flooring, carefully disassemble the planks to begin the gluing.
2. Begin by gluing the first board in the second row to the first board in the first row. Apply the glue to the tongue of the board on the floor and to the groove of the board being installed.
3. Continue by following the order shown in the graphic. Tap the planks gently into place with a hammer and soft wood block. The joints should all be tight, and glue should ooze to the surface.
4. Wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth.
5. Allow the glue to dry for at least one hour before continuing.

Continue the Installation

1. Continue laying boards one row at a time, gluing them as you go.
2. Use spacers to maintain your 1/4" expansion space along the walls.
3. Allow the glue to dry at least six hours before removing the spacers and installing the wall base molding.

Apply the Finishing Touches

1. Use transition moldings as necessary. Coordinating end moldings, T-moldings and reducer strips are available to make decorative and functional transitions where the new flooring meets existing flooring.
2. Predrill all moldings and transition strips before nailing or screwing.
3. Install wall base moldings along the wall perimeter to hide the expansion area and provide a decorative, finished appearance.